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Hong Kong
Author:
Helen_K
Blog URL:
http://www.fashioncareers.co.uk/blogs/hongkongexchange
Tags:
hong kong poly-u exchange
Description:
I am currently a contour Fashion student at DeMontfort university. Between August and September I will be on an exchange with Hong Kong Poly-U where I will study their Intimate Apparel course for 6 weeks.
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Intimate Textiles Lesson 1
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Intimate TextilesIntroduction Lesson OneWednesday 10th September As the tutor, Joanne Yip had been in Paris for the Intimate Apparel Show for the past two weeks this was our first Intimate Textiles lesson. As  an introduction we went through different materials that are used for intimate apparel and why. We looked at the material selection criteria and how materials are classified within the intimate apparel industry. I found it really interesting as fabrics are something I have difficulty defining. For the second part of the lesson we went into more detail about common fibres used in intimate apparel. We looked at a number of natural, regenerated and synthetic fibres. Throughout the lesson we had handouts with a number of different tasks to complete as we gained knowledge on the fibres. I found this a really good way of working as it was quite specific about what details we needed to find out. To help us understand, samples were also passed around for us to look and feel the difference in them. 
17/09/2008 0 comments | Add Comment
Functional Intimate Apparel Lesson 2
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Functional Intimate Apparel

Tuesday 9th September 2008

Lesson Two

 

The aim of today’s lesson was to look at an example of functional intimate apparel. In our case we were looking at Maternity Support garments. To begin our research we looked at the initial request. We familiarized ourselves with the customer’s needs and looked into why a support garment might be needed. To help us understand how it would feel to be pregnant we had a fake belly that we could strap on. I found it really interesting and standing for only a few minutes started to make my back ache! Back pain was the main area of discomfort that these garments are trying to relieve. To investigate the design situation we reviewed a number of articles and literature, looking at patents, pain relief strategies and reasons for back pain. Using research from the internet, shop visits and pamphlets we were able to look at what garments are available and which are the most successful. We decided there were 5 main themes that needed to be considered when designing a new garment. These were

  • Comfort (thermal, moisture, pressure, tactile.)
  • Aesthitics (design, colour)
  • Support (pain, fatuigue)
  • Mobility
  • Convenience to wear.

Through fit testing current garments we were able to identify the main problems with them which we could try and overcome with our own design. These included

  • Poor quality
  • Bulky seams
  • Restrictive
  • Too thick
  • Irritating

For homework we were asked to design our own support garment in order to solve these problems.

17/09/2008 0 comments | Add Comment
Body, Beauty and Fit
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Body, Beauty and FitFriday 5th September This module is also taught by Winnie Yu. The subject was introduced by a slide show presentation that we worked through in order to understand the subject content. Unlike how the title suggests the topic is more mathematic, looking at the angles, area, volume, proportion and curvature of the body based on scientific understanding. The aim of the subject is to ‘integrate 3D body size, shape and beauty assessment into intimate apparel design and fitting for women in the global markets’. During the lesson we were given two short exercises to do. One was to describe the structure of a given bra and the other to label the components. Both of these were things that Nicole and I had done previously in both our first and second years at DMU. I am really looking forward to seeing how this subjects progresses over the next few weeks. 
05/09/2008 0 comments | Add Comment
Intimate Pattern cad.
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Intimate Pattern cad.Wednesday 3rd September 2008. Today we were in the cad labs which are in the S core. The class from yesterday was joined with another so that there were 32 of us. Dr Zerence Ng took the class who had set us our sport bra brief. He introduced us to a new cad package, Opitex 9 which was really fascinating as it is something I have never worked on. It works similarly to lectra in that you can plot and alter pattern pieces. It however has a 3D model that you can put the garments onto in order to test the fit of the garment and the drape of the fabrics used. It also shows you the pressure which is being exerted onto the body in certain areas.  I really enjoyed working with it! As it was our first attempt at using the package we used patterns that already existed. With these we added the direction of which seam matched with which and played around with the texture of the fabric on the bra. As the image is 3-dimensional it gives a realistic view of the garment which can be viewed from any angle! We were working on a demo of the package but it does have the option to animate the model as well to see the stresses and strains caused by the movement. I am looking forward to working with this programme again.
05/09/2008 0 comments | Add Comment
Functional Intimate Apparel
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Functional Intimate ApparelTuesday 2nd September 2008. This was our first lecture as part of the course. There were only 14 in the class including Nicole and I. To begin the lesson Winnie, the tutor, went through how this module is set out. For the first seven weeks they would be having lectures and the next seven would be practical in the studio, so for the four weeks we are here we will have a lecture each week. For this first week we were going to discuss the functional design process. In order to do this we looked at some models of the design process, specifically DeJonge’s 1984 theory. We went through the model and came up with an example to try and help understand it better. 
  1. Initial Request – Doctors are finding pregnant women to be suffering from lower back pain. Prescribing drugs is not recommended for pregnant women and the women find little time in order to do exercises that may train the muscles.
  2. Design Situation – Maternity Shops looking at existing products such as support belts. Looking into why these are not satisfactory.
  3. Design Problem – How can this be helped? Interview the doctor/pregnant women/midwife for different views and personal responses.
  4. Design Specification – What specific requirements are needed? A garment that helps to reduce lower back pain and that isn’t too hot to wear.
  5. Design criteria – Performance required. To what extend should the fabric be breathable?
  6. Prototype Development – The make up, pattern and materials used for the garments. Technical Specification Sheets.
  7. Prototype Evaluation – Wear trail and function test. Does it achieve what it set out to?
 From the reading list we then chose one paper to read from which we filled in the model.We were given the Development of a Sports Bra Prototype: Patternworks International Best Solution to a Patternmaking Problem, Krenzer, G.Starr, c and Branson, D. 2000. 
  1. Initial Request – No comfortable or supportive sports bras available particularly for the larger busted women.
  2. Design Situation – Breast  discomfort/ experienced pain during exercise/ irreversible breakdown of breast tissue.
  3. Design Problem – Survey/Questionnaire to evaluate users perceptions of fit and performance. Directed both in person and on the internet so that it was not bias.
  4. Design Specification – Good upward support/ limit breast movement/ cups specifically need to fit.
  5. Design criteria – constructed from non-elastic materials that are not allergenic or abrasive/ Have good moisture management/ Provide flattering look/ Facilitate thermal comfort
  6. Prototype Development – Bra combined encapsulating inner bra with a compression style outer/ Used high modulus knit fabric/ wide non-adjustable straps/ Fabrics with good moisture management/ wide underband and adjustable back closure.
  7. Prototype Evaluation – Used design criteria and specification. In controlled environment laboratory wear tested. 2 methods to access and compare support and thermal comfort.
 Once we had done this we each presented the information we had gathered for each paper. We then watched the video ‘Design on your bra’ which is about the Bioform bra. Whilst we were watching it we listed the stages the design team went through in order to reach their final product. 
05/09/2008 0 comments | Add Comment
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